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Training for climbing
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drg     Reply with quote
I am currently at a school far, far away from any mountains but we are currently having a rock wall installed.l was wondering how l should go about training.Right now l do 5 sets of 15 pull ups on small crimps followed by 3 sets of frenchies on a pull up bar every other day. On the days I am not doing this l do push ups, sit ups, lower ab lifts and use free weights to excercise my obliques.Should l do push ups and sit ups every day? Should l do pull ups on a bar rather than crimps? Since I am hanging from crimps while l do pull ups do l need to do static hangs? l appreciate all the help l can get.
Star     Reply with quote
wow that is a lot of training, u must be looking to put that new wall to good use.
i'd say do not do pushups & situps every day, ur body needs time to rest each muscle set.
also i'd say that if u do pull ups on a bar rather than on crimps then u would be able to work ur shoulders more, as presumably u can hold on for longer to a bar than a hold. but having said that, it is not exaaactly realistic training for climbing as u never get bars to hold onto. but it could help, who knows.
static hangs do not seem to do too much, as it is not often that u do it in climbing, but again l guess it could not hurt if you've got time & energy spare.

one exercise that l recommend is on a fingerboard like you're using.
start off by static hanging, then raise yourself like a pull up until ur head is level with ur hands. hold this for five seconds, then lower slowly. next raise yourself pull up style so ur forearm & upper arm r at ninety degrees, hold for five seconds, & lower slowly. next do the same but with ur arm only slightly bent, so at more than ninety degrees.
do this a few times, in a few sets. could try holding the tensed position for longer once u get better, or could try with smaller holds or with weights on ur back.

but do not overtrain, u do not want to damage ur finger ligaments.

another thing for u to think about is how u r holding the holds. r u in the crimped position? this is where ur top finger joints r hyperextended, i.e. so ur finger does not have a nice curl round, but goes one way with one joint & the other way with the other joint, so it kinda looks like this _/ (if u can imagine that). anyway i'm sure u know what a crimp is. the thing l want to draw ur attention to is that crimping provides mechanical advantage because of the levers & pulleys in ur fingers, & so u can hold onto smaller holds this way, as it makes ur grip stronger. it is, however, bad for ur fingers, & also u cannot use a crimp when you're making a dynamic move.
hence, u may want to try holding onto holds more with an open hand position, as in the long run this makes ur fingers stronger.

hope this helps!
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