My girlfriend and l would like to plan a summit attempt on Rainier for 2009/2010.After some research we excluded Mt. Whitney and some others from our list and came down to Rainier.The two of us have guided treks into the Boundary Waters in Minnesota and have significant back country camping experience as well as long days (up to 22 miles in a day) on the Superior Hiking Trail. We know what it would take to get into shape for a summit attempt and will have no problems committing to that portion of the challenge.

So my question goes out to people who have climbed Rainier or have significant knowledge of the mountain.If we do decide that Rainier would be our first endeavor into the mountaineering world, we would not tread lightly.We would probably take either the Disappointment Cleaver or Ingraham Glacier Direct routes and plan to travel in late July or early August.And as l have said we have no mountaineering experience specifically, but would prefer to take the trip without a guide. We love a challenge but still wanna be reasonable about it, so what are your thoughts? Does our lack of mountaineering experience disqualify us from making Rainier our first? Or can our other life experiences provide enough stamina and determination to make it to the summit?

If you have climbed many a mountain and think we are daft for trying Rainier first, let me know what you would suggest for a first summit (hopefully glaciated)?

Thanks in advance for your input!

l am afraid l have no personal experience with Rainier & have not researched it at this time, but glaciated u say? You'd better at least know how to create an ice axe anchor or ice screw anchor & know how to escape the system & then winch the other person out of a crevasse, should such an eventuality occur! Brush up on ur alpine skills by looking at books, watching videos, seeking advice from friends, & practicing it on dry land until u know it perfectly. You probably wo not need to use it, but u never know. Also helicopters & other ascentists (Mount rainier appears to be popular) can help u out, but it is always good to know the skills yourself. And u know ice axe arrests, & how to climb & pitch on ice terrain?

The short answer is: No, u should not attempt Rainier with ur level of experience.

A glacier is a potentially deadly place, & fitness is no substitute for experience & skill. There r many skills involved in climbing a glaciated mountain safely, such as self-arrest, crampon technique, roped travel, snow anchors, crevasse rescue etc. You need to be have enough experience to be able to find the right route (admittedly not too hard on Rainier since they're so well-traveled), read snow/avalanche conditions & navigate if u get caught in a whiteout.

Another point is that a 2-person roped team is something for experienced mountaineers. Ask yourself: if u fell into a crevasse, is ur girlfriend strong enough to arrest the fall, construct a snow anchor, transfer the load on to the anchor & then haul u up? I've tried this in practice situations with another guy my body weight, & l can tell u it is pretty difficult.

Rainier is probably the deadliest mountain in the continental US, & it is not a place for a beginner to learn the ropes. If u want the satisfaction of climbing Rainier unguided, I'd suggest the following steps: first take a short mountaineering class to get learn the basic mountaineering skills (there r guide companies out there that offer 2-3 day classes). Practise those skills to make sure u have them under ur belt. Then attempt a less dangerous glaciated peak like Shasta or Shuksan before going for Rainier.

Trying to climb Rainier with ur level of inexperience is ultimately irresponsible. u might be able to make it to the top & back down safely, but u wo not be able to prevent minor incidents into turning into life-and-death situations & require rescue, risking the lives of rescuers. As an example, on my descent from the summit of Rainier, l slipped & started sliding down the mountain. My teammates immediately braced to arrest my fall, & l also executed a ice axe self-arrest, & then climbed back up to rejoin my team. If neither me nor my teammates had mountaineering skills, l would probably have dragged them off their feet & we'd all end up at the bottom of a crevasse.

So, take ur time to gain the experience. You will be much safer, & find the education to be enriching.

If you are going to climb a snow covered peak as your first big mountain, l would suggest either taking a glacier travel course and possibly go with a certified guide - or you could climb some smaller peaks first and gain experience

Good Luck

Of course it can be.but definitely go with a guide service. Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., International Mountain Guides, & Alpine Ascents all offer Rainier climbs on the Disappointment Cleaver route (as well as others). It is not just RM l as Schnurburt asserts. All of them have similar programs - IMG & AA l offer a high camp on the Ingraham Glacier.

All of them offer training on knots, rope work, & self-arrest using an ice axe.

If u r not using a guide, l would NOT have Rainier be ur first mountain. It is a serious endeavor - being a glaciated peak & all. You will need glacier travel skills to complete the climb safely.

Mountaineer, Triple Crown backpacker & author Karen Berger has some advice for you, which is my answer to ur question:

''The truth about Mt. Rainier? l have the dream of climbing Mt. Rainier. Is this something that someone with no climbing experience can do? Is it hard?

Is running a marathon hard? Is passing the bar hard? YEAH IT'S HARD!!!! I've heard people who run marathons & triathlons claim that Rainier is the hardest thing they've ever done. If you're serious about this, get thee to a gym!

As far as experience is concerned, someone better have a LOT of it, but that someone does not need to be you. Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. is the Park Service is concessionaire on the mountain. They offer a three day package that will get u up (and more importantly, down) safely if you're fit enough & the weather cooperates. (Note for oddsmakers & gamblers: About half the people who attempt the mountain each year succeed in making the summit.)

Here is the drill:

Day one: Back to School. You learn basic mountaineering skills: rope handling, cramponing technique, ice ax use, self arrest, etc. When u get good enough at screaming ''FALLING!!'' while falling upside down & backwards, digging ur face into the snow, & (finally) stopping, they pass u & u can climb.

Day two: Trudge. No biggie here, just a stiff hike up a big hill to Camp Muir at about 10,000 feet. You march in a nice little line. The guides like u to keep close together, so you're out of luck if u do not happen to like the pace set by the folks in front of you. Get used to it, because that is what the rest of the climb will be like. Meanwhile, the guides patrol at the outside of the line, evaluating climbers for potential laggards & klutzes.

Day 3: The showdown. Man against mountain & all that sort of stuff. You will be awakened between 11 p.m & 2 a.m., depending on the weather. The rest is all about trying to both pace yourself AND keep up. Think of climbing the Empire State building roped behind that guy at the gym who always has the stairmaster set on Level 10.

In case l have not been clear as mountain water: Tackle this mountain with a group of other amateurs ONLY if u have a LOT of high altitude mountaineering experience. Otherwise, go with a guide service. Avalanches, rockfall, crevasses, hypothermia, falls, & high altitude sickness r among the tragic fates that await those who overestimate themselves against this mercurial but dangerous mountain.''

Primarily, I'd only make this one suggestion:

First summit?? ''hopefully *NOT* glaciated'' would be a more appropriate remark / plan on ur part.

l second & third the statements of glaciers being deadly & not for beginners. Crevasses may be hundreds of feet deep, & they may not be straight shots, so not only will u be banged up on the way to being possibly lost forever, but u could be lost forever. Nothing but ''glacier-management'' should be on ur mind when you're on a glacier, not worry & concern about fledgling mountaineering skills. Like when you're driving, u should not be talking on the phone or messing with the radio, when you're practicing glacier-transit skills, u should not be without a 110% complement of basic mountaineering skills going in - i.e. when all but the glacier itself is second nature to you. Altitude fitness? Pack management? Consumable supplies? Off-goal contingency plan? These issues (and others) should be accounted for before they arise, if u consider yourself glacier-ready. Do not be the subject of a Reader is Digest story.

Short answer? If u have to ask, you're NOT ready.

You should probably take a class at the mountain. They provide mountaineering classes at Rainier. They teach you everything you need to know. It would be a safe thing to do if you have no real mountaineering experience. You may know a lot about mountaineering, but you should still take a class or you can watch videos online if you do not want to spend the money on the class.