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Melody
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In a few weeks, l am going to compete in a bouldering competetion at my local rock climbing gym. l usually do regular climbing, (lead l think its called) and l can climb up to a 510-511. I am not too great at bouldering but l can go to the top on soem of them. l do not know the levels, but l made it midway on a v6. the competitiion is going to be good. Any tips so l can get ready for the competition?
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beert394
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Boulder. a lot.
Work on ur grip. a lot.
But be careful not to overtrain. Train until u have nothing left in u but no more than that or u risk injury. Nothing kills the excitement of training for a competition like dropping out due to an injury.
Also, get strict about ur diet NOW.
l would also drop the training a couple of days before the event, or reduce it drastically. Give ur body time to relax & recover before the comp. Maybe focus more on stretching, relaxation techniques & mental training.
Hope this helps. good luck!
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Starnr
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OK a v6 is really good- l rock climb three times a week at our local gym, & l think the highest bouldering route is a v6. As for tips, endurance- build up ur endurance by climbing around ur gym is bouldering as long as u can without falling off. If u fall, hop right back on. THe goal is to climb long & easy not hard & long, k? DO ur best & have cofidence- u r really good! Oh one more thing, if l were ou- DONT DIET!! bring clif bars & stuff for the comp but dont hurt yourself. Rather thatn stop training before the comp work on either strength training or on ''hold'' training- work on grip on all different types of holds.
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zof943
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With only a few weeks I'd say watch overtraining, eat & sleep well for that part.
When u practice find the rating where u can send on the second or third try consistently before the comp, this is ur upgrade rating not what u want to begin with.
To start, go for at least a grade lower & maybe more. With comps u have to send it to get points, tries do not count, that is why knowing what u can send on the second try is important.
It should seem easy at first & that is OK, after 5-6 of them it wo not seem easy any more, & if u try harder ones early u pay big time later.
Try sending 6-7 routes where u climb this weekend, this would be good timing to get a feel for how much endurance is needed & the rating to use to start with.
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Coach
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If there is a slab at ur wall, try practicing footwork by going up & down on different parts with no hands, it is trick to start, but u get used to shifting ur weight over u foot & moving ur body in certain ways. Try practicing static hangs. Just grab some jugs on an overhang or the door frame or a chin up bar & see how long u can hold on with ur arms straight. Do not let go, keep holding on until u fall off. Shake out for a couple of minutes, get a drink or something, & do it again. Practice on routes with just slopers, just crimpy grips & just features. Carbo load a few days before the comp. Eat a big plate of spuds or pasta or rice for dinner for at least three days in advance. Always let a couple of people succeed before trying the route, remember where they struggled & try & figure out the move at those parts. Take two days of rest before the comp, do not go wrecking ur fingers or pulling a muscle at the last minute.
G'luck, try googling it.
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Kim
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Practice everyday especially endurance since l think you already have good techniques. Just remember to take the day off before the competition. Also watch your diet.
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