Anyone (Tahoe T?) have any tips on avoiding a mid wall bivy?

Both the East Face & the East Buttress routes up Mt Whitney r 5.7 climbs, not particularly difficult technical climbs. Route finding is easier with the East Face route because of very obvious & prominent features on the way up (see link) as compared to the East Buttress route. If you're lacking a climber that knows the route, study up this route as much u can before u get to Iceburg Lake, & then when u get there, study the face itself. Most of the climb is not technical at all, even though u may wish to stay roped because of the exposure. The key to making this climb quickly, besides physical condition & acclimation, is to be able to handle the technical sections efficiently, so it does depend on how much experience ur climbing team has with rock climbing & use of equipment. If ur team functions well on technical sections, then u do have some flexibility or choice of routes on ur way up---so that u need not find yourself ''stuck''. There is more than one way to get up the East Face route.

On the other hand, if 5.7 is the limit of ur team is climbing ability, then, yes, u could get stuck pretty easily, since ur team could ''freeze up'' at the first unexpected technical difficulty---forcing u to find EXACTLY the one ''right'' way up. Worse, the Fresh Air Traverse could prove to be too intimdating with its massive exposure, even though it can be climbed safely if u keep a cool head. l should advise u that inexperienced climbers have been known to get killed here because they do not realize they need to place multiple protection as they make the traverse, & then end up slamming against the wall with a pendulum fall, & die with 1,000 feet of vertical air still below them. This is not a difficult climb, but ur team should be experienced in rock climbing.

Just saw ur question - sorry for my delay.

PLEASE do not believe anyone that says the East Face (5.4) & East Buttress (5.7) routes on Whitney r the same with regard to technical difficulty. The East Face is a 5.4 with difficult route finding & the East Buttress is a 5.7 / 5.8 with almost no route finding - u just follow the arete.

It is true that the features on the East Butress r easily noted on a route map, but they r very different when u get closer.

1. Tower Traverse: Set up at the obvious flat just behind the first tower at the base of the second tower where the East Butress route starts up its first 5.7 pitch - u will know it when u see it. You will be able to look over the edge (South) to the base of the mountain & around the corner u will see an obvious ledge system & u will see several pitons as u traverse. From the Tower Traverse, u will see that u r approaching the Washboard but u have to climb a corner or a difficult to protect face to get to it. This may be the crux. Climb to the Washboard before setting a belay anchor.

2. Washboard: This is a class 3 / 4 section that most simul-climb or climb without a rope - l always have. As long as u r far enough from the edge belaying ur second u wo not mind climbing this without a rope. Head up & to the left.

3. Divide: As u near the top left corner of the Washboard, u will come to a 40ft vertical wall which faces North (most use rope here) - facing South, climb up & over this wall & u will find dirt covered ledges on the other side. Follow these ledges toward the corner & cross to the other side.

4. Fresh Aire Traverse: once u get across the corner & start rounding the mountian, u will near the Fresh Aire Traverse. Look back across to the ledges where u came from & u will note that there is one ledge that runs level all the way from the dirt ledges into the corner - climb to this level before continuing. When u get to the traverse, a blank wall, there is this one place to cross. It has a very thin foot ledge & about two feet higher there is a upward facing flake for the hands - it is quite easy to cross if u r in the right place but it does have incredible exposure. One piece on each side is all that l ever set.

5. Grand Staircase - Continue up & around the mountain & u will see the grand staircase - obvious 50ft blocks that step to the top of the mountain. At the base, there is a wall with another crack / chimney to get to the staircase. There is one place where u come to a very blank wall - u must climb an obvious corner crack on the left (the climb crux) or this can be bypassed by climbing up & around to the right. The staircase it most of the vertical & the best climbing of the route.

6. Follow the crown of the mountain to the top.

A lot of route finding, but a classic climb. Most can do it in 4 hours or so from the rope up point. l lead a 50+ year old friend of mine up it & we had a good time. My first teacher used to routinely solo this route after reaching Iceburg Lake & make it back to camp in time for dinner!

Place good anchors, use good route finding, use minimal protection up the 2 very easy pitches on the Washboard & try not to set too much pro (it is only a 5.4) & u will complete it fairly quickly.

Good Luck!