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Belay Device Question
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Griffin     Reply with quote
Am 130 lbs.Need to belay 185 lbs. climber.Have used a smooth tuber, stich plate, and figure 8 in the past but they've killed my hand (also the heat from the friction is tough) when lowering heavy climbers, especially.Besides the use of gloves, can you recommend a better belay device?Thanks for any beta.
Norm     Reply with quote
Have you tried an ATC or ATC-Guide before? l have an ATC and use it for belaying and for rappelling and really like it much more than a figure 8.

RE l has a wide array of belay devices on their web site, but l have never used most of them.

http://rei.com/category/4500695
Newman     Reply with quote
l have a figure 8 & this sheriff.
http://rockclimbing.com/gear/Detailed/1528.html
It has worked just fine for me. l hate using gloves. l like the sensitivity of my hand & just can not get used to gloves, even nice thin pig skin.

with ur right hand, when put the tail end of the rope behind ur lower back, try to add more pressure there to more evenly distribute the line speed. Try to be fluid & not ''jerky'' with the line, as the sudden start & fits will potentially chew up ur hands.
Hanson     Reply with quote
If you are worried about your hands you should use gloves or try and use the GriGri or the Trango Cinch. Which both of them use camming technology to stop a climber if the fall, but once they are ready to be lowered you just pull on the lever and they smoothly come back to the ground. Plus this way you do not have to worry about a lot of friction. Anyways, the GriGri is about $85 while the Cinch is about $55.
Coach     Reply with quote
Simple solution, you could add a second carabiner that would create more friction.

Most ATC is can be used in high friction and low friction mode. l like the petzl reverso, it has lots of friction (and it is a reverso, which lets you belay from above hands free!)
Kim     Reply with quote
The best for lowering, of course, is the Petzl GriGri - but it is a little more difficult to use for lead belaying.

My favorite belay devices are:

Black Diamond ATC XP (extra friction side, good retainer loop)
Hugh Banner Sheriff (med friction, solid metal retainer)

Good Luck
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